Scandinavian Christmas Quilt: An Embroidered Masterpiece

Capture the warmth and charm of the holiday season with the Scandinavian Christmas Quilt. Designed for advanced sewists, this exquisite project combines embroidery and quilting techniques to create a stunning piece perfect for your home. Each block is crafted in the hoop on your embroidery machine, then pieced together with precision using straight stitching. The thoughtful construction ensures that even a domestic sewing machine can bring this festive quilt to life. Wrap yourself in holiday magic with this heirloom-quality creation!

Materials needed:

• Embroidery files, find them here
• Template for cutting shapes, find PDF here: (not needed if you use the momento cutting machine 
• White fabric. In this quilt I used old linen tablecloth, a wonderful way to recycle Heirlooms beyond repair. Yardage is difficult to decide, but about 4 yards (4 meters) will be enough. 
• Red solid fabric for the blocks and binding. I used cotton sateen for a more luxurious look. 3 yards (3meters) required 
• Stabilizer. I used old white cotton sheets for this, recycling fabric is always nice, and it will be hidden between the layers in the quilt. Of course you can use a soft cutaway stabilizer instead. 
• Thin polyester batting. 
• Fabric for backing 4 yards(4meter) 
• Sewing thread
• Embroidery thread (for the quilting stitches) 

Cutting   

• If you have a momento cutting machine you will find the cutting file here
• From red fabric you also need to cut the binding, cut 7 strips 3½” (9cm) xWOF 

Cutting with ruler and rotary cutter: 

• Cut out the shapes needed from the PDF-template. 
• Binding, cut 7 strips 3½” (9cm) xWOF 

Square blocks 

Make 44 

Make 4 

When making the block above with white center follow the instruction but reverse the colors. 

1. Hoop soft cutaway stabilizer or use some old fabric like an old bedsheet. 
2. Stitch out color 1, this will make an outline for placing the batting. 
   
   
3. Place the batting in the hoop, make sure it extends outside the stitching line on all sides. Stitch out color 2, this will secure the batting in the hoop and stitch guidelines for fabric placement. Cut away excess batting around the stitch line. 
   
   
4. Place the diamond fabric piece in the center, right side up. Make sure it extends a little outside the stitched area on all sides and at least 3/8” (1cm) on top. Stitch out the next color (3) this will secure the fabric piece in place. 
   
   
5. Place one background triangle on the left side on top of the diamond, the right side should be down. Make sure the long side of the triangle overlaps the seam about ¼" (6mm) stitch out next color (4) this will sew the background piece in place.
   Tip: when using white as the background make sure it covers the seam allowance of the piece underneath, otherwise it could be shown on the finished block. In this case it could be a clever idea to cut off excess seam allowance from the diamond fabric to avoid this, leave about 1/8” (3mm). 
   
   
6. Fold out the white fabric piece, stitch out the next color. This will secure it in the hoop. 
   
   
7. Place one background triangle on the right side on top of the diamond, right side down. Make sure the long side of the triangle overlaps the seam about ¼" (6mm) stitch out next color this will sew the background piece in place. 
   
   
8. Fold the piece down and stitch out the next color, this will secure the patch. 
   
   
9.  Place next background triangle at the lower right side of the diamond. Stitch in place. 
   
   
10. Fold the fabric piece down, stitch out the next color. This will secure the patch in the hoop. 
    
    
11. Place one background triangle on the left side bottom side of the diamond. The right side should be down. Make sure the long side of the triangle overlaps the seam about ¼" (6mm) stitch out next color (4) this will sew the background piece in place. 
    
    
12. Fold out the white fabric piece, stitch out the next color. This will secure it in the hoop. 
    
13.  A stitch line (color 14) will secure the edge and then the last color (15) is the quilting. 
    
    
14. Unhoop the patchwork block, turn it upside down. Cut out with a 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance. Measure the seam allowance from the inner stitch line. See image below  
    
    

    Triangle in square blocks 

    Make 16   
    
    
15. Hoop soft cutaway stabilizer or use some old fabric like an old bedsheet. 
16. Stitch out color 1, this will make an outline for placing the batting. 
    
    
17. Place the batting in the hoop, make sure it extends outside the stitching line on all sides. Stitch out color 2, this will secure the batting in the hoop and stitch guidelines for fabric placement. Cut away excess batting around the stitch line.  
    
    
18. Place the fabric piece for the center on top of the stitch line, make sure it extends outside the stitch line on all sides and at least 37(2 (1cm) at the top. Stitch next color, this will secure the piece in the hoop. 
    
    
19. Place the fabric for the left side piece in the hoop, raw edges even and right sides facing. Stitch the next color, this will sew the piece in place. 
    
    
20. Fold out and stitch the next color. this will secure the piece in the hoop.
    
    
21. Place the fabric for the right side piece in the hoop, raw edges even and right sides facing. Stitch the next color, this will sew the piece in place. 
    
    
22. Fold out and stitch the next color. This will secure the piece in the hoop. 
    
    
23. Next color will be the quilting in the center. 
    
    
24. The last color will quilt the triangles on the sides. 
    
    
25. Unhoop the patchwork block, turn it upside down. Cut out with a 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance. Measure the seam allowance from the inner stitch line. See image below 
    
    

    Small triangles in square 

    Make 48 
    
    
26. Hoop soft cutaway stabilizer or use some old fabric like an old bedsheet. 
27. Stitch out color 1, this will make an outline for placing the batting. 
    
    
28. Place the batting in the hoop, make sure it extends outside the stitching line on all sides. Stitch out color 2, this will secure the batting in the hoop and stitch guidelines for fabric placement. Cut away excess batting around the stitch line. 
    
    
29. Place the fabric piece for the center on top of the stitch line, make sure it extends outside the stitch line on all sides and at least 37(2 (1cm) at the top. Stitch the next color, this will secure the piece in the hoop. 
    
    
30. Place the fabric for the left side piece in the hoop, raw edges even and right sides facing. Stitch next color, this will sew the piece in place.
     
31. Fold out and stitch the next color. this will secure the piece in the hoop.
    
    
32. Place the fabric for the right side piece in the hoop, raw edges even and right sides facing. Stitch the next color, this will sew the piece in place.  
    
    
33. Fold out and stitch the next color. this will secure the piece in the hoop.
    
    
34. Next color will be the quilting in the center. 
    
    
35. The last color will quilt the triangles on the sides. 
    
    
36. Unhoop the patchwork block, turn it upside down. Cut out with a 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance. Measure the seam allowance from the inner stitch line. See image below 
    
    

    Elongated Star Block 

    Make 16 
    
    
37. Hoop soft cutaway stabilizer or use some old fabric like an old bedsheet. 
38. Stitch out color 1, this will make an outline for placing the batting.  
    
    
39. Place the batting in the hoop, make sure it extends outside the stitching line on all sides. Stitch out color 2, this will secure the batting in the hoop and stitch guidelines for fabric placement. Cut away excess batting around the stitch line. 
    
    
40. Place the fabric piece for the center on top of the stitch line, make sure it extends outside the stitch line on all sides and at least 37(2 (1cm) at the top. Stitch the next color, this will secure the piece in the hoop. 
    
    
41. Place the fabric for the left side piece in the hoop, raw edges even and right sides facing. Stitch the next color, this will sew the piece in place. 
    
    
42. Fold out and stitch the next color. this will secure the piece in the hoop. 
    
    
43. Place the fabric for the right side piece in the hoop, raw edges even and right sides facing. Stitch the next color, this will sew the piece in place. 
    
    
44. Fold out and stitch the next color. This will secure the piece in the hoop. 
    
    
45. Place the triangle for the center lower piece, see image below. Stitch next color, this will sew it in place. 
    
    
46. Fold out and stitch the next color. this will secure the piece in the hoop. 
    
    
47. Place the fabric for the left side piece in the hoop, raw edges even and right sides facing. Stitch the next color, this will sew the piece in place. 
    
    
48. Fold out and stitch the next color. this will secure the piece in the hoop. 
    
    
49. Place the fabric for the right side piece in the hoop, raw edges even and right sides facing. Stitch the next color, this will sew the piece in place. 
    
    
50. Fold out and stitch the next color. this will secure the piece in the hoop. 
    
    
51. Next color will be the quilting in the center. 
    
    
52. The last color will quilt the triangles on the sides. 
    
    
53. Unhoop the patchwork block, turn it upside down. Cut out with a 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance. Measure the seam allowance from the inner stitch line. See image below  
    
    

    Background square block 

    Make 88 
    
    
54. Hoop soft cutaway stabilizer or use some old fabric like an old bedsheet 
55. Stitch out color 1, this will make an outline for placing the batting. 
    
    
56. Place the batting   in the hoop, make sure it extends outside the stitching line on all sides. Stitch out color 2, this will secure the batting in the hoop. Cut away excess batting around the stitch line.  
    
    
57. Place the fabric piece for the center on top of the stitch line, make sure it extends outside the stitch line on all sides at least 37(2 (1cm). Stitch the next color, this will secure the piece in the hoop.
    
    
58.  Stitch out the last color which is the quilting. 
    
    
59. Unhoop the patchwork block, turn it upside down. Cut out with a 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance. Measure the seam allowance from the inner stitch line. See image below 
    
    

    Background rectangle block 

    Make 84 
    
    
60. Hoop soft cutaway stabilizer or use some old fabric like an old bedsheet 
61. Stitch out color 1, this will make an outline for placing the batting. 
    
    
62. Place the batting   in the hoop, make sure it extends outside the stitching line on all sides. Stitch out color 2, this will secure the batting in the hoop. Cut away excess batting around the stitch line. 
    
    
63. Place the fabric piece for the center on top of the stitch line, make sure it extends outside the stitch line on all sides at least 37(2 (1cm). Stitch the next color, this will secure the piece in the hoop.
    
    
64.  Stitch out the last color which is the quilting. 
    
65. Unhoop the patchwork block, turn it upside down. Cut out with a 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance. Measure the seam allowance from the inner stitch line. See image below 
    
    

Assembly

 The assembly of this quilt is made in subunits which are made into rows. The rows are then sewn together with the backing to avoid bulk in the sewing machine. This is a clever method of joining large quilts even on a household machine! 

Making the block units. 

The quilt is made of 36 block units, 6 blocks in each row. 

Make them as described in the illustrations below. Seam allowance is 3/8” (1cm)

Unit 1-6 Blocks 

Blocks 1-6 Finished 

Unit 7-12 Blocks

Blocks 7-12 Finished 

Unit 13-18 Blocks

Blocks 13-18 Finished  

Unit 19-24 Blocks

Blocks 19-24 Finished 

Unit 25-30 Blocks

Blocks 25-30 Finished 

Unit 31-36 Blocks

Blocks 31-36 Finished 

Sew the blocks together in rows 

Sew the blocks together to make 6 rows as follows: 

Row 1 block 1-6 

Row 2 block 7-12 

Row 3 block 13-18 

Row 4 block 19-24 

Row 5 block 25-30 

Row 6 block 31-36  

Sewing the rows together with the add backing AS-You-Go technique 

This technique is an easy way of making large quilts on a household machine. It is particularly well suited for In-the-hoop blocks since they are already quilted! 

Follow the instructions below to finish your quilt with this method: 

Cutting backing pieces: 

1. Cut out backing pieces at least 2” wider than the row pieces on all sides. Remember that the rows are different in size!  
2. Mark the backing pieces 1-6.  
3. The backing fabric is medium gray for right side and light gray for wrong side in the illustrations below for better visibility. 
4. Start with backing pieces 6 and 5.  lay them on top of each other, right sides facing and raw edges even at top. 
   
   
5. Place row 6 right side up on the backing pieces, raw edges even at the top.
   
   
6. Place row 5 on top, right side down, raw edges even at the top. Make sure you det the orientation of the row right. Pin in place and sew all layers together with a 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance. 
   
   
7. Fold out the backing and the rows of blocks. Press. Pin the layers together at the top, do not overstretch the backing. Topstitch close to the edge to hold the layers together. 
   
   
8.  Cut away excess backing fabric at the top edge. Put backing fabric 3 on the back, right sides facing and raw edges even. Put row 3 on top of row 2, right sides together. Pin in place and sew together with a 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance. 
   
   
9. Continue to add rows and backing in the same way until the quilt is finished. Topstitch close to the edge to hold the layers together. Cut away excess backing fabric. 
   
   

   Making and adding the quilt binding 

   - Measure the length and width of the quilt add 10” (25cm) this is the length of the binding strip needed.  
   - Cut 3 ½” (9cm) strips to get enough for the length needed. 
   - Join all the binding strips into one long strip. The easiest way to do this is simply to bring the short edges together and sew a straight seam but I will show you a neater way that reduces bulk when sewing the binding to the quilt. 
   

   Making the binding strip 

10. Put two strips on top of each other as shown in the image below, right sides facing. The short ends will go outside as shown to make the next step easier. Pin in place. 
    
    
11. Draw a diagonal line from left to right as shown below: 
    
    
12.  Sew on top of the line and cut away excess fabric leaving about ¼" (6mm) seam allowance. 
    
    
13.  Press the seam allowance apart and cut away excess fabric (“dog ears”) 
    
    
14. Repeat the steps to make one long strip.
     
    

    Attaching the binding to the quilt. 

15. Place the quilt with the backing up. Start pinning the strip somewhere in the middle of a long side. Start sewing about 4” (10cm) from the edge of the strip. This makes it easier to sew the ends together later. Stop sewing ¾" (2cm) from the corner. Tie off the thread. See image below for clarity. 
    
    
16. Time to make the first corner: fold the strip at a right angle in the corner. It will look like this: 
    
    
17. Now fold the strip over with the raw edge matching next side of the quilt. It will look like this: 
    
    
18. Sew together starting at the edge of the quilt and stop ¾"” (2cm) from the next edge fold as you did before and continue stitching on next side. When you have made the last corner stop sewing about 8” (20cm) from where you started to add the binding. 
    
    
19. To join the ends, you need to let the edges overlap by 3½” (9cm) cut away excess binding strip. 
    
    
20. Draw a diagonal line (45 degrees) 
    
    
21. Bring the opposite corners up and sew together. 
    
    
22. Cut away excess fabric, leaving av ¼" (6mm) seam allowance. 
    
    
23.  Press the seam allowances apart and sew the last part of the binding in place.
    
    
24. Press the binding towards the edge, making mitered corners (45-degree angle) 
    
    
25. Turn the quilt right side up. Fold the edges of the binding towards the edge of the quilt.  
    
    
26. Turn the binding in over the edge of the quilt. Fold the corners into a 45-degree angle.
    
27. Pin in place and topstitch close to the inner edge of the binding. 
    
    
    Your quilt is now finished! Well Done!